Possibly one of the greatest pleasures in sailing is in making
a safe, accurate, landfall. That pleasure is doubled when the
landfall is in a foreign country. The voyage will almost
certainly be out of sight of land, but even with modern
navigational assistance, there is a certain excitement in
identifying the first blurring of the horizon or flash of a
lighthouse. When you arrive, you can tell by the feel of the
place, the architecture, or even the climate, that it is not
one's home country.
The S and CA's
spring rally at St. Vaast, France, is early enough in the season
for it to be one's first foreign trip, unless you happen to be a
very hardy sailor, For those of us in the Solent it is a
distance, about 70 miles, which can be covered in a long day
(weather permitting) or, like Judicious, made into a overnight
voyage with the pleasures (or otherwise) of watchkeeping. The
1998 rally was over the weekend of 23rd May. Judicious set out at
dusk on the Thursday night and we had to motor to nearly dawn,
with the Isle of Wight still disappointingly close, until the
breeze started. It was kind to us and within a couple of hours we
had the spinnaker up, and although it never matured into a good
sailing wind, we had a pleasant crossing of the English Channel
in good sunshine.
St Vaast harbour is gated and we timed our arrival for the late
afternoon opening. As we gentle reached down the coast we could
see the masts of the waiting boats starting to move as they
raised their anchors and we followed them through the entrance to
find a space in the crowded harbour. This is particularly
pleasant, one side being lined with houses and restaurants
overlooking the fishing quay, the other looking out over the
oyster beds to the forts on Ile de Tatihou.
On the Saturday
morning there was an excellent street market with the most
wonderful food stalls. Why cannot the fish shops in England have
the same selection of produce, after all it is the same stretch
of water? We purchased baguettes, pate, cheese and wine, and
then, it being low water, took the causeway across the oyster
beds to Ile de Tatihou and had a picnic lunch on the beach in
this nature reserve. Large gulls had nests every few yards in the
low scrub and were being very protective of their eggs, and the
small spring flowers were in bloom.
During the day other S and CA boats had arrived and n the
evening we assembled in the Hotel Vauban for the excellent 4
course FF99 (US$16) dinner. There was plenty of time to exchange
sailing tales, and to enjoy the wine, as the service was a mite
slow, and I am sure during the course of the evening the waves
got higher and the winds got stronger. We were entertained by an
Irish folk group (in a French restaurant!) who provided a jolly
backing.
The next morning saw the fleet stocking their wine cellars at M
Gosslein - it is truly astonishing the capacity of S and CA
yachts for cases of wine and beer. We departed at midday, just
before the harbour gates closed, and thought we would have a beat
home, but whoever controls these things was smiling and within a
couple of hours the wind had backed, the spinnaker was up, and we
had a glorious sail, reaching the Isle of Wight at sunset. By
midnight we had anchored in the lee of the island. A short beat
the next morning took us up the E Solent back to our mooring on
the Hamble. It had been a four day break, but felt almost like a
week's holiday.